Lesson Learned: You aren’t really DIY’ing until you have your own nail gun! TRUST me!
Welcome again to another table build! Is it just me, or have I constantly been making and posting about tables?! This is our third table build in about a month and half! Apparently you need more of them in your house than you think!!
This is the final table we need for our newly renovated basement and since it’s the last one, why not make it the best one?? I wanted to add some height and variation to the room so I opted for us to build a high top pub style table- with a modern twist!
As always, this table design began with a search online, me being amazed at how much these pub tables cost, and then a, “Jasonnnn why don’t we build one ourselves??”
A quick sketch on paper of the design I wanted and it we were off on our weekly Friday evening Home Depot date!! I won’t spare you with my drawing skills so I made up the design on the computer. The table is square so these dimensions apply on all sides.
What you will need:
- Four 4″ x 4″ – Cut to 39″
- Five pieces of 1″ x 4″; Cut to varying lengths depending on your style (See steps below)
- Four pieces of 2″x 4″ with rounded edges trimmed off ; Cut to size of your table top (See steps below)
- 1″x 5″ Pine Board. Mitered 45 degree ends (Varying lengths dependent on table size and pattern)
Table Top Support Frame:
- Four 1″ x 2″ cut to your desired length – Remember to factor in the width of the table edge.
Drill & Drill Bits
Ryobi Nail Gun
Sander / Sand Paper (60 and 120 grit)
Step 1 – Construct Table Top Support Frame
For the tabletop support frame, cut your 1″ x 2″ to create the desired size. Note: we planned to add on a chunkier tabletop border later so our frame accounted for the extra 3″ of tabletop space so our frame measured 33″ x 33″.
Glue and nail the frame together. Then, I suggest adding a piece down the middle for added support for the chevrons to attach to. See below!
Step 2 – Begin the Table Top ‘Chevron’ Pattern Build
Begin by cutting and placing a piece of 1×4 perpendicular to the middle support of your frame. Make sure it is centered to create a balanced and symmetrical pattern. We will call this the “spine”! I should also note, make sure the ends are flush with the tabletop frame (this will help if you decide to put a border around the top, we ended up having to slightly sand ours level!)
Each piece of the chevron needs to be mitered to a 45 degree angle. Start from the bottom and work your way up.
We found it was easiest to start by cutting one end of a 1″ x 4″ to a 45 degree angle, then hold this piece up to the “spine” mark the next piece where it needed to go and marked the cut to length accordingly.
Place a bead of glue along the frame and on the adjoining side of the neighboring ‘chevron’ piece. We used our Ryobi Nail Gun to fire 1 1/4″nails into the support frame and into the side of the center piece to secure that end as well. For anyone who completes DIY Projects and does not have a nail gun, please go out and invest in one. It saves SO much time and effort.
After about 45 minutes of cutting, gluing and nailing you will have a complete pattern:
Step 3 – Attach Supports to Table Top
At this point we flipped the table over and added in some extra supports for the underside of the table top. We just tactically used the remaining pine from the chevron design, hence the 4 pieces evenly spaced out. I (and I mean I here) glued and nailed to both the frame / middle support and the underside of the table top.
Step 4 – Add on 2″x 4″ Table Top Border
Remember those 2″ x 4″‘s that you cut the rounded edges off of? Get those back out. Miter one end to a 45 degree angle. You can then figure out where the opposing end needs to be cut by holding it in place and marking the end. It is better to be 1/16 too long than too short. “You can always cut more off but you can’t add more on” so bear that in mind!
Once you have both ends cut, secure to the table frame with 2″ wood screws and some glue from the inside of the support frame. Jason used 4 screws evenly spaced out but use as many as you feel is necessary for your project.
Tip: If your 2″ x 4″‘s are slightly bowed like ours were, and they commonly are, do not worry. The screws will pull them straight and line them up with your table edge. Just make sure they are done up tightly.
Securing the sides from the inside prevents you have nail / screw holes that would need filling later.
Repeat this process for all sides and soon you will have a complete table top.
You can see here I had filled any small gaps. I used DAP Plastic Wood because it is easy to use, dries quickly but most importantly – it is stain-able.
At this point I sanded down the top. We only have a small shed outside that we use as a work shop so it was easier to sand the top while it was separate from the legs. You could easily do one big sand when it it fully assembled.
I began with 80 grit and then finished it off with some 120 but you can adjust this as you feel your top requires.
Step 5 – Cut Legs to Size & Attach
I wanted thick chunky legs so I opted for 4″ x 4″ pieces. You can get these from Home Depot in 8ft lengths for $10 each. We cut the legs to 39″ long but you can vary as you require. The normal height range for a pub table is anywhere between 38″ and 42″.
Once I had them cut I sanded them down because it’s easier than sanding a full assembled table when you only have a small work space.
Secure the legs to the inside corner of your table top frame using wood screws. You can add some glue but I wanted the legs to be able to detach.
One you have all four legs attached I decided that I wanted an extra piece added from the top to each leg, these are partially for support but more for the look.
Use the left of pieces of the pine from the table top, and a table saw to cut them in half width ways. Each end was mitered to 45 degrees and attached using a nail gun and wood glue. Sand them down to remove any sharp edges and rough spots before attaching. Like I said these are more for looks than support so they don’t need to be super sturdy. You can see the joins below.
Step 6 – Stain and Protect
Here is my deadly combo of colors. Dark Walnut for the top and my favorite, Kona for the legs.
I began with the Top.
And then the legs.
Please excuse the plastic bags, it was cold outside and I did not have a tarp on hand… Sometimes you have to improvise with what you have!
Once it is fully stained and it has dried over night (I always leave it 24 hours to dry) you can give it all a coat of Polyurethane to protect it. Apply a light coat with a foam brush. Once this has dried you can sand off any rough areas using some 220 grit sand paper and then re-apply another coat.
Step 7 – Relax and Enjoy